Showing posts with label Power Amplifier. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Power Amplifier. Show all posts

build Active Sub-Woofer and Controller



Introduction

Sub woofers are actual popular, with home theatre actuality one of the active forces. However, a acceptable sub adds appreciably to accustomed hi-fi affairs material, and abnormally so if it is anticipated and has acceptable acknowledgment characteristics.
The majority of sub woofers use a ample apostle disciplinarian in a ample box, with affability vents and all the difficulties (and vagaries) that accepted operation entails. By conventional, I beggarly that the apostle and chiffonier are operated as a beating system, application the Thiele-Small ambit to access a box which will (if aggregate works as it should) accommodate accomplished performance.
The assumption of Extended Low FrequencyTM(or ELFTM) [1] is decidedly uncommon, with one architect that I accept begin application it in their subs [2]. I doubtable there is one other, but I am not assertive that the aforementioned adjustment is acclimated - although the assumption is the same. Since ELF is trademarked, I will not be application the appellation in this project, but will accredit to my adaptation as Electronically Assisted Subwoofer (EAS). I briefly anticipation about Electronic Subwoofer Assumption (ESP) but absitively that would be asinine :-)

The basal attempt were apparent by Edward Long and Ronald Wickersham (although there is a achievability that others accept acclimated agnate attempt beforehand, there is little accessible literature), and they both point out that there are some above problems in the reproduction of low bass, highlighting the actuality that the bass is the foundation aloft which the complete angel is created, and that the appearance acknowledgment of ported enclosures can account "smearing" of the complete in the time domain. I don't apperceive about "smearing", but I do apperceive that my ancestor provides bass that is added and tighter than annihilation I accept heard before. Ported enclosures absolutely account problems with the sound, as the reproduction apparatus relies on two beating systems, and it takes time for the complete to body up and decay.

Siegfried Linkwitz [3] developed a ambit that equalises the basal end of the system, but does not affect the college frequencies. This is apparent and declared absolutely in Activity 71, and charge be acclimated with a crossover. Although it offers several advantages over the EAS arrangement declared here, it is additionally abundant added codicillary on your abundant ability of the loudspeaker disciplinarian parameters
ROCKTRON REPLITONE 60 watt modeling amp This amp has the PATENTED HUSH circuit that ROCKTRON SELLS EVEN SEPARATELY IN A RACK FOR OTHER AMPS it quiets those idle pink noise that irritates all pedal boards New RepliTone combo amps. Get the sounds the players get with a powerful DSP combo amp that models the artists, not just the amps. DSP effects ... based on Rocktron’s Intellifex. This amp series features Digital Tube Replication technology (DTR) to replicate the artists and their many vintage and modern amplifiers. Tweeds, Plexi’s, Fuzz Tones, Jazz Tones as well as Thrash, Class A, 70’s Style and many more with ease. Each replication features all of the dynamic characteristics of the original tones including EQ, gain structure and attack dynamics, and the FEEL of the REAL THING.
Rocktron’s new DTR technology HUSH noise reduction 30 programmable presets w/MIDI interface Stereo 24-bit digital effects 16 vintage and modern amplifier replications 60 watts (per side on 212) Tap tempo delay and trem rate Stereo headphone output with speaker simulator Traditional look and operation Real amplifier controls Dozens of effect configurations

The RepliTone series features a programmable 24-bit DSP effect section with effects such as delays, choruses, flange, phaser, compressor, wah, tremolo, rotary speaker and reverb. Dialing in just a right amount of effect is made easy by using the Effect Select knob to select the effect and adjusting the Effect Adjust knob to modify it. Delay time or Trem Rate can be set on the fly with the Delay Time and Rate buttons. 30 MIDI programmable presets (which can be switched via any MIDI controller or by an optional 4-button footswitch) and stereo effect loop make it very easy to use tons of tones in any live situation.

The studio is also a perfect place for the RepliTone amps. Not only can you achieve almost any tone you want, you can use the Headphone output with speaker simulation to run the RepliTone amps direct in stereo.

The controls of the RepliTones are laid out in a traditional amp style with knobs for adjusting Bass, Mid, Treble, Gain and Volume. Additional controls for Effect Adjust, Reverb Level, and Delay Level make it extremely simple to use and adjust in those real critical moments on stage.
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via craiglist

In this section Rangkaian Sirkuit pengatur volume digital discussed a series of digital volume control that is used in the amplifier or control.memang tone on tone, volume control is available but we can raise the volume control with this tesendiri.rangkaian circuit using IC DS1669 Digital Pot type-specific IC This volume.rangkaian settings are suitable for middle-class amplifier that small defenseless under 50 watts. To get a picture or a clear scheme of this circuit click on the image sequence
list of componen : Part Total Qty. Description Substitutions C1 1 0.1uf Ceramic Disc Capacitor U1 1 DS1669 Digital Pot IC (See Notes) S1, S2 2 Momentary Push Button Switch MISC 1 Board, Wire, Socket For U1.

Skema Sirkuit amplifier Lengkap

Skema Sirkuit amplifier Lengkap- an amplifier / power amplifier circuit is 50 watts rms, which uses a transistor amplifier of npn and pnp 2n 3055 and 7391 which have 2n considerable power. Will be presented and links to sites that provide tutorials and free electronic circuit. To get a clear picture of this circuit click on the image sequenceComponen list for Amplifier : Part Total Qty. Description Substitutions R1 1 200 Ohm 1/4 W Resistor R2 1 200K 1/4 W Resistor R3 1 30K 1/4 W Resistor R5 1 1K 1/4 W Resistor R6 1 5K 1/4 W Resistor R7,R10 2 1 Meg (5%) 1/2 W Resistor R8,R9 2 0.4 Ohm 5 W Resistor R11 1 10K Pot R12,R13 2 51K 1/4 W Resistor R14 1 47K 1/4 W Resistor C1 1 100uF 35V Electrolytic Capacitor C2 1 0.011uF Capacitor C3 1 3750pF Capacitor C4,C6 2 1000pF Capacitor C5,C7,C8 3 0.001uF Capacitor C9 1 50pF Capacitor C10 1 0.3uF Capacitor C11,C12 2 10,000uF 50V Electrolytic Capacitor U1,U2 2 741 Op Amp U3 1 ICL8063 Audio Amp Transister Driver thingy Q1 1 2N3055 NPN Power Transistor Q2 1 2N3791 PNP Power Transistor BR1 1 250 V 6 Amp Bridge Rectifier T1 1 50V Center Tapped 5 Amp Transformer S1 1 SPST 3 Amp Switch S2 1 DPDT Switch F1 1 2 Amp Fuse SPKR1 1 8 Ohm 50W Speaker MISC 1 Case, Knobs, Line Cord, Binding Posts Or Phono Plugs (For Input And Output), Heatsinks For Q1 And Q2

How To Choose The Right Car Subwoofer

How To Choose The Right Car Subwoofer-The Bottom Line Read this review to find out how to choose the right subwoofer(s) for your car.

Choosing a subwoofer can be a very difficult but interesting task. When you're choosing a car sub, you need to know what you really want. It depends what kind of music you listen to, and other factors.

-Your Car Is Not A House-
*I have heard subwoofers in big rooms in houses. The subs for example were 8", and the rooms were large. The bass was terrible because it wasn't able to fill the room or anything. The vibrations and everything that the sub had to do was not there. The car is a completely different environment. Bazooka makes popular subs, and a lot of people buy their 8" amplified tubes, I have heard these tubes in Jeep Wranglers and in a lot of SUVs, they can make the cars shake and vibrate, and get people to stare. Car subwoofers can also be as small as 6.5"... So as you can see, the bass reflects of more areas in a car, thus giving a drastically improved bass response because the smaller area. So you don't need to get a 10" or 12" neccassarily to get your car to vibrate.

-Tubes VS. Box Enclosures-
*Tubes - The only brand that makes tubes is Bazooka. Many of the tubes have built-in amplifiers, they are easy to move, and they are quite inexpensive. They are popular because of their simplicity and price. These will create bass, but not the cleanest or lowest hitting bass out there. So if you're into music, then these aren't for you. If you want something to just pound, then these are quite good. However, you can do better with box enclosures.

*Box Enclosures - Box enclosures are when you buy either a ported or sealed enclosure, and put in however many drivers the box can hold. You can get one that holds either one, two, or three. Many people uses sealed enclosures because they are the smaller one of the two, but I use a ported in my car. Unlike tubes, with boxes, you can add whichever brand of woofers you want, and your own amplifier. However, this can be a more difficult task than just putting in a tube. But, you get much more versatility. Whether you're setting up a budget or audiophile sub hook-up, a majority of the people will use box enclosures.

-The Different Materials-
*Different subwoofers are made out of different materials. Many of the more inexpensive and common subs are built out of paper cones. These will generally handle the job well, but there will be more distortion, but the price difference is quite large. Polypropylene is becoming quite of a popular polymer, it is higher quality than paper, and still quite inexpensive. The best of the new subwoofers are alluminum subs. I use a single alluminum Audiobahn 12" in my Pathfinder off of a Kicker amp, and I love it. The sound quality that it gives me is very clean and smooth. The surrounds around the voice coils are usually rubber. Other brands may use other types of surrounds, but rubber is still the most commonly used and most durable.

-Voice Coils-
*The more layers and space that you have, the better sound quality you get. There are two kinds of bass, clean bass and "ghetto bass". Clean bass subs include brands such as Nakamichi, McIntosh, Blaupunkt, Audiobahn, Infinity, and other higher end brands. They usually have dual-voice coils and give very clean bass. There are also such things as "ghetto subs" which can handle enormous amounts of power, such as 1000 Watt+ RMS, but their bass is very dirty and distorted, it's not good for real music. I've seen very expensive subs that have quadruple voice coils (Sony Mobile ES), but a majority of the high quality subs will have dual-voice coils, but you can definitly do with one.

-Driver Sizes-
*Well, as you can see, in the car an 8" sub will make the car vibrate and do everything that someone would want a subwoofer to do. However, the larger the subwoofer, it can get: Louder, cleaner, hit lower frequencies, and handle more power. If you've got a tight budget, an 8" will do the job, but if you're an audiophile or are really into music, then bass is would be very important to you. I think the ideal size for any subwoofer is 12" because it can hit the lowest notes without using all that much power. A 12" can certainly reach lower notes than an 8". If you can hear the difference in frequencies or need that "bang", then you should get a larger subwoofer. However, if you just want to fill in some lower notes but aren't expecting that much, then go for a 8" subwoofer or something like that. It would save you money.

-Amps and Power-
*The power of your amp should depend on the size of the driver or how much bass you want. I use a fairly powerful amp to power my Audiobahn. I know people that are car stereo crazy, and they power over 1000 Watts to some of their subs, but that is over-kill. It can break the glass on a car, and if the subwoofer is poorer quality, there is a huge amount of distortion. You should never exceed the RMS rating on your drivers, because one day your sub will go "pop!", and there will be nothing left. I think something around 200 Watts per driver should be enough for most people. Most amps that have much more power than that are over-kill I think.

-In Conclusion-
*I hope that this review has helped you in finding the perfect subwoofer for your car. If you have trouble finding the right brand or anything, just look up consumer reviews or get advice from friends. My personal advice is that Audiobahn or Blaupunkt are both superb brands and you'll definitely get a lot for your money. But, most brands will make consumers happy. well, good luck!
this is 25 Watt MosFet Audio Amplifier page, is by far the most visited of this site, and is on-line since March 1999. The circuit has been built by many amateurs all around the world and is still very popular: as a logical consequence, in these years this small amplifier was frequently debated in Audio forums and rumors arose about its quiescent current stability and other topics.
Eventfully, I was now able to get and carry to my laboratory one of the first prototypes of the complete Stereo Amplifier I built in 1992 for a friend, so I was very anxious to perform extended tests on this amplifier after 15 years of use.
The tests results, with some added comments are shown below.
High Quality simple design Schema 25 Watt MosFet Audio Amplifier
No need for a preamplifier-# Can be directly connected to CD players, tuners and tape recorders. Simply add a 10K Log potentiometer (dual gang for stereo) and a switch to cope with the various sources you need.
# Q6 & Q7 must have a small U-shaped heatsink.
# Q8 & Q9 must be mounted on heatsink.
# Adjust R11 to set quiescent current at 100mA (best measured with an Avo-meter connected in series to Q8 Drain) with no input signal.
# A correct grounding is very important to eliminate hum and ground loops. Connect to the same point the ground sides of R1, R4, R9, C3 to C8. Connect C11 to output ground. Then connect separately the input and output grounds to power supply ground.
# An earlier prototype of this amplifier was recently inspected and tested again after 15 years of use. Schema 25 Watt
R1,R4_________47K 1/4W Resistors
R2____________4K7 1/4W Resistor
R3____________1K5 1/4W Resistor
R5__________390R 1/4W Resistor
R6__________470R 1/4W Resistor
R7___________33K 1/4W Resistor
R8__________150K 1/4W Resistor
R9___________15K 1/4W Resistor
R10__________27R 1/4W Resistor
R11_________500R 1/2W Trimmer Cermet
R12,R13,R16__10R 1/4W Resistors
R14,R15_____220R 1/4W Resistors
R17___________8R2 2W Resistor
R18____________R22 4W Resistor (wirewound)

C1___________470nF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C2___________330pF 63V Polystyrene Capacitor
C3,C5________470µF 63V Electrolytic Capacitors
C4,C6,C8,C11_100nF 63V Polyester Capacitors
C7___________100µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
C9____________10pF 63V Polystyrene Capacitor
C10____________1µF 63V Polyester Capacitor

Q1-Q5______BC560C 45V 100mA Low noise High gain PNP Transistors
Q6_________BD140 80V 1.5A PNP Transistor
Q7_________BD139 80V 1.5A NPN Transistor
Q8_________IRF530 100V 14A N-Channel Hexfet Transistor
Q9_________IRF9530 100V 12A P-Channel Hexfet Transistor

Power supply circuit diagram:
Power supply
Parts:

R1____________3K3 1/2W Resistor

C1___________10nF 1000V Polyester Capacitor
C2,C3______4700µF 50V Electrolytic Capacitors
C4,C5_______100nF 63V Polyester Capacitors

D1__________200V 8A Diode bridge
D2__________5mm. Red LED

F1,F2_______3.15A Fuses with sockets

T1__________220V Primary, 25 + 25V Secondary 120VA Mains transformer

PL1_________Male Mains plug

SW1_________SPST Mains switch
Power Amplifier Circuit diagram-This project was a sort of challenge: designing an audio amplifier capable of delivering a decent output power with a minimum parts count, without sacrificing quality.Power Amplifier Circuit diagram

The Power Amplifier section employs only three transistors and a handful of resistors and capacitors in a shunt feedback configuration but can deliver more than 18W into 8 Ohm with <0.08%>

Setting up the Power Amplifier:

The setup of this amplifier must be done carefully and with no haste:

  1. Connect the Power Supply Unit (previously tested separately) to the Power Amplifier but not the Preamp: the input of the Power Amplifier must be left open.
  2. Rotate the cursor of R4 fully towards Q1 Collector.
  3. Set the cursor of R3 to about the middle of its travel.
  4. Connect a suitable loudspeaker or a 8 Ohm 20W resistor to the amplifier output.
  5. Connect a Multimeter, set to measure about 50V fsd, across the positive end of C5 and the negative ground.
  6. Switch on the supply and rotate R3 very slowly in order to read about 23V on the Multimeter display.
  7. Switch off the supply, disconnect the Multimeter and reconnect it, set to measure at least 1Amp fsd, in series to the positive supply (the possible use of a second Multimeter in this place will be very welcomed).
  8. Switch on the supply and rotate R4 very slowly until a reading of about 120mA is displayed.
  9. Check again the voltage at the positive end of C5 and readjust R3 if necessary.
  10. If R3 was readjusted, R4 will surely require some readjustment.
  11. Wait about 15 minutes, watch if the current is varying and readjust if necessary.
  12. Please note that R3 and R4 are very sensitive: very small movements will cause rather high voltage or current variations, so be careful.
  13. Those lucky enough to reach an oscilloscope and a 1KHz sine wave generator, can drive the amplifier to the maximum output power and adjust R3 in order to obtain a symmetrical clipping of the sine wave displayed.
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